Nema Life

Hi everyone I've finally gotten enough time to write out a cohesive email, this will be the first one for a long time, I'm sorry for my absence, I've been a combination of both incredibly busy and ill, and in Nema, internet connection is a scarce commodity! I'm actually writing this from my friend and fellow sitemite Edna's computer so I can spend my time writing something of substance. Here is what I can report about Nema and my first few weeks here after being sworn in as a volunteer. Let me take you all back to swear-in for a minute. After 10 long weeks of blood, sweat, tears and language classes, 66 of us swore in front of the Deputy Chief of Mission of the US Embassy "to protect and defend the Constitution from attacks both foreign and domestic" while we serve as volunteers. This will sound very nerdy but I got a little choked up and felt honored and proud to be serving my country in this way. The ceremony was very nice everyone was all dressed up in their finest western or Mauritanian outfits, and many members of government attended, and the ceremony was broadcast on Mauritanian television that day. It was quite a spectacle. Afterwards most of us spent the afternoon trying to get everything together for the big swearing in party that we had been looking forward to for the last 10 weeks. The second year volunteers had smuggled in several cases of whiskey from Senegal for the party. I signed up for making punch which meant that I got to go to the "hotel" that was hosting the party early to help set up (and start drinking before the other volunteers). It had rained that afternoon intermittently and when we got to the hotel we found that it was mostly under water!!!! I did the best I could to try to get some sort of shelter going so people didn't have to drink in the rain but it was hopeless. Everyone had a great time anyway, a group of people cooked a huge feast of Mexican food (nachos made from frying white flour and cheese dip from processed cheese and dried red pepper and tomatoes). It was a lot of fun, I was most happy to be able to wear jeans and dance till 2 am to western music.
\u003c/span\>Being able to drink was just an extra bonus!! After the party died down we were driven back to the lycee to crash until the afternoon the next day.\u003cspan\> \n\u003c/span\>The following morning we loaded all of our belongings onto pickup trucks and four wheel drives to make the long trek to our respective sites. It was difficult to say goodbye to these friends I'd just made knowing that the next time I'd see them would be Christmas!!! Its such a long time from now!!! \n\u003c/strong\>\u003c/font\>\u003c/span\>\u003c/p\>\n\u003cp style\u003d\"margin:0cm 0cm 10pt\"\>\u003cspan lang\u003d\"EN-US\"\>\u003cfont face\u003d\"Times New Roman\"\>\u003cstrong\>It took us two days by car to get to Nema, along the way we stopped at volunteer's homes in Kiffa and Aouin. Apparently they had been expecting us so we were treated to awesome western home cooked meals, in Kiffa we had curried lentils and in Aouin we had beef brisket and scalloped potatoes. By the afternoon we arrived in Nema, and stayed at my community contact's house for 3 days while we searched for housing.\n\u003cspan\> \u003c/span\>One of our language facilitators had come with us to help us find housing and get settled\u003cspan\> \u003c/span\>in, at the end of the 3 days he found 4 houses for the 4 of us, all except one being in a complete state of disrepair. He figured he had done his part so he left us after that. I signed a lease on a house that was twice the price of my budget for housing and 3 of us moved in together and will be splitting the rent till we all find reasonable places to live.\n\u003cspan\> \u003c/span\>\u003c/strong\>\u003c/font\>\u003c/span\>\u003c/p\>\n\u003cp style\u003d\"margin:0cm 0cm 10pt\"\>\u003cspan lang\u003d\"EN-US\"\>\u003cfont face\u003d\"Times New Roman\"\>\u003cstrong\>Let me tell you all a few things about Nema, this is as much as I can gather from the few weeks I've spent here so far and the literature I have on the town. Nema is the regional capital of the Hodh El Chargui district of Mauritania. It is the easternmost district and is bordered by \nMali on all sides. Nema is 1100 kilometers from Nouakchott and is 550 kilometers from Bamako, the capital of Mali, it is also close to Timbuktu but there is no paved road to get there, but I am planning to go there when I finally get the time to travel. The population of Nema is around 10,000 people, but the district itself is much larger. One hour from Nema is Oalata, a UNESCO world heritage site, during the colder months (November- February) many tourists come through Nema on the way to Oalata or \nTimbuktu.",1]
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Being able to drink was just an extra bonus!! After the party died down we were driven back to the lycee to crash until the afternoon the next day. The following morning we loaded all of our belongings onto pickup trucks and four wheel drives to make the long trek to our respective sites. It was difficult to say goodbye to these friends I'd just made knowing that the next time I'd see them would be Christmas!!! Its such a long time from now!!!
It took us two days by car to get to Nema, along the way we stopped at volunteer's homes in Kiffa and Aouin. Apparently they had been expecting us so we were treated to awesome western home cooked meals, in Kiffa we had curried lentils and in Aouin we had beef brisket and scalloped potatoes. By the afternoon we arrived in Nema, and stayed at my community contact's house for 3 days while we searched for housing. One of our language facilitators had come with us to help us find housing and get settled in, at the end of the 3 days he found 4 houses for the 4 of us, all except one being in a complete state of disrepair. He figured he had done his part so he left us after that. I signed a lease on a house that was twice the price of my budget for housing and 3 of us moved in together and will be splitting the rent till we all find reasonable places to live.
Let me tell you all a few things about Nema, this is as much as I can gather from the few weeks I've spent here so far and the literature I have on the town. Nema is the regional capital of the Hodh El Chargui district of Mauritania. It is the easternmost district and is bordered by Mali on all sides. Nema is 1100 kilometers from Nouakchott and is 550 kilometers from Bamako, the capital of Mali, it is also close to Timbuktu but there is no paved road to get there, but I am planning to go there when I finally get the time to travel. The population of Nema is around 10,000 people, but the district itself is much larger. One hour from Nema is Oalata, a UNESCO world heritage site, during the colder months (November- February) many tourists come through Nema on the way to Oalata or Timbuktu.
\u003c/span\>Nema's main sources of income are livestock, boutiquiers and trade with Mali. There is a hospital, an airport (no flights though, there's been talk of having flights during the tourist season but I'm doubtful of that) an army base, one hotel and one restaurant. \n\u003c/strong\>\u003c/font\>\u003c/span\>\u003c/p\>\n\u003cp style\u003d\"margin:0cm 0cm 10pt\"\>\u003cspan lang\u003d\"EN-US\"\>\u003cfont face\u003d\"Times New Roman\"\>\u003cstrong\>Nema reminds me of what Bethlehem probably looked like 2,000 years ago, if you were to add the presence of cars and cell phones. It is a small valley town surrounded by hills\n\u003cspan\> \u003c/span\>and sparsely studded with date palm trees.\u003cspan\> \u003c/span\>Nema is almost an entirely White Moor town with a scattering of Pulaars (who generally live along the \nSenegal River, in towns like Boghe and\u003cspan\> \u003c/span\>Kaedi) and many Malians seeking work and trade.\u003cspan\> \u003c/span\>This means that almost everyone speaks Hassaniya and hardly anyone speaks French. This has been my major source of frustration with the Peace Corps is that when\n\u003cspan\> \u003c/span\>I got off the plane from the US my French was passable but I spent 10 weeks studying a language that I probably will not be using for my next 2 years here!!! This could all change though, I've only spent a few weeks here and maybe all the francophones are hiding. All I know is that I really need to bring my Hassaniya up to speed as quickly as I can. Even in my short time here so far I've been able to pick up a lot of words, and in order to try them out I just sort of weave them into my French sentences when I talk to people.\n\u003cspan\> \u003c/span\>And somehow, through some act of god or fate people actually seem to understand me and I am starting to understand them. I say this a lot about Mauritania but it bears repeating, people will completely go out of their way to try to understand you if you just try to use their language. \n\u003c/strong\>\u003c/font\>\u003c/span\>\u003c/p\>\n\u003cp style\u003d\"margin:0cm 0cm 10pt\"\>\u003cspan lang\u003d\"EN-US\"\>\u003cfont face\u003d\"Times New Roman\"\>\u003cstrong\>We got to Nema just as the month of Ramadan was starting, most of you are probably curious about what that means for me living in an Islamic Republic, so here's a short description: during the month of Ramadan people do not eat or drink water (this includes swallowing saliva) during the day and abstain from sex, smoking cigarettes and speaking negatively about others (among many other things).\n",1]
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Nema's main sources of income are livestock, boutiquiers and trade with Mali. There is a hospital, an airport (no flights though, there's been talk of having flights during the tourist season but I'm doubtful of that) an army base, one hotel and one restaurant.
Nema reminds me of what Bethlehem probably looked like 2,000 years ago, if you were to add the presence of cars and cell phones. It is a small valley town surrounded by hills and sparsely studded with date palm trees. Nema is almost an entirely White Moor town with a scattering of Pulaars (who generally live along the Senegal River, in towns like Boghe and Kaedi) and many Malians seeking work and trade. This means that almost everyone speaks Hassaniya and hardly anyone speaks French. This has been my major source of frustration with the Peace Corps is that when I got off the plane from the US my French was passable but I spent 10 weeks studying a language that I probably will not be using for my next 2 years here!!! This could all change though, I've only spent a few weeks here and maybe all the francophones are hiding. All I know is that I really need to bring my Hassaniya up to speed as quickly as I can. Even in my short time here so far I've been able to pick up a lot of words, and in order to try them out I just sort of weave them into my French sentences when I talk to people. And somehow, through some act of god or fate people actually seem to understand me and I am starting to understand them. I say this a lot about Mauritania but it bears repeating, people will completely go out of their way to try to understand you if you just try to use their language.
We got to Nema just as the month of Ramadan was starting, most of you are probably curious about what that means for me living in an Islamic Republic, so here's a short description: during the month of Ramadan people do not eat or drink water (this includes swallowing saliva) during the day and abstain from sex, smoking cigarettes and speaking negatively about others (among many other things).
\u003c/span\>Children and women who are pregnant or breastfeeding are exempt from fasting during Ramadan. What does this mean for me? Well, the market stays open during Ramadan, so I really only make a point of abstaining from drinking water in public and in front of other Mauritanians. The three of us living together will eat lunch at our house, but usually go out most nights a week to neighbors and colleague's houses to break fast. "Breaking fast" starts at sundown and most people start with a handful of dates and cold water and some porridge, then they have bissap (a juice made from hibiscus leaves and sugar) or Zrig – a fermented milk drink made also with sugar. After the initial "starters" it is customary to have tajine – which is usually slow cooked meat/animal parts with an onion sauce and potatoes or French fries, as well as bread. After tajine comes a larger plate of either pasta or couscous. This really is a timely affair, I usually leave people's houses around 11:30 or midnight, before the couscous comes out to be eaten!!!\n\u003cspan\> \u003c/span\>It is also important to note that Mauritanians wake at 4:00 am before the morning prayer call to eat breakfast and shower. I have not yet participated in that part of Ramadan, thank god!\n\u003cspan\> \u003c/span\>So for me, Ramadan just means a lot of late night eating I guess, life really wasn't as disrupted as it could have been. \u003c/strong\>\u003c/font\>\u003c/span\>\u003c/p\>\n\u003cp style\u003d\"margin:0cm 0cm 10pt\"\>\u003cspan lang\u003d\"EN-US\"\>\u003cfont face\u003d\"Times New Roman\"\>\u003cstrong\>So, how is my "work" going?\u003cspan\> \u003c/span\>I have been assigned to work at the CFPP which is a trade school with probably 80 students offering classes in metalwork, electrical wiring for buildings, secretarial skills, accounting and computer classes; both girls and guys are encouraged to take these classes( but I really don't think women take the metalwork/shop classes). My counterpart is the director of the CFPP, I have not yet met him (he was supposed to return before September 19\n\u003csup\>th\u003c/sup\>",1]
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Children and women who are pregnant or breastfeeding are exempt from fasting during Ramadan. What does this mean for me? Well, the market stays open during Ramadan, so I really only make a point of abstaining from drinking water in public and in front of other Mauritanians. The three of us living together will eat lunch at our house, but usually go out most nights a week to neighbors and colleague's houses to break fast. "Breaking fast" starts at sundown and most people start with a handful of dates and cold water and some porridge, then they have bissap (a juice made from hibiscus leaves and sugar) or Zrig – a fermented milk drink made also with sugar. After the initial "starters" it is customary to have tajine – which is usually slow cooked meat/animal parts with an onion sauce and potatoes or French fries, as well as bread. After tajine comes a larger plate of either pasta or couscous. This really is a timely affair, I usually leave people's houses around 11:30 or midnight, before the couscous comes out to be eaten!!! It is also important to note that Mauritanians wake at 4:00 am before the morning prayer call to eat breakfast and shower. I have not yet participated in that part of Ramadan, thank god! So for me, Ramadan just means a lot of late night eating I guess, life really wasn't as disrupted as it could have been.
So, how is my "work" going? I have been assigned to work at the CFPP which is a trade school with probably 80 students offering classes in metalwork, electrical wiring for buildings, secretarial skills, accounting and computer classes; both girls and guys are encouraged to take these classes( but I really don't think women take the metalwork/shop classes). My counterpart is the director of the CFPP, I have not yet met him (he was supposed to return before September 19 th
\u003c/span\>So basically I will be going to the CFPP sometime next week to talk to the director and try to get the details of all of this worked out, so people don't expect me to waltz in the first day with a lesson plan and roster or something… It's the middle of Ramadan anyway, people don't really do anything in 115 degree heat without drinking or eating…The first 3 months at site are really supposed to be spent learning the language and the culture of your site and getting to know its people before diving into really ambitious projects. I've been trying to do that by studying the market as best I can when I visit\n\u003cspan\> \u003c/span\>it. I also plan to work with women's cooperatives, hopefully in time for the tourist season.\u003c/strong\>\u003c/font\>\u003c/span\>\u003c/p\>\n\u003cp style\u003d\"margin:0cm 0cm 10pt\"\>\u003cspan lang\u003d\"EN-US\"\>\u003cfont face\u003d\"Times New Roman\"\>\u003cstrong\>So what is it like living in a "Conservative White Moor Town" that hasn't had Americans in 20 years?? It's not bad, you'd be amazed at who you can meet when you put yourself out there. My next door neighbor is the medecin chef (head of the hospital) who studied medicine in Moscow in the 80s.\n\u003cspan\> \u003c/span\>One of our friendliest neighbors is a man who spent 20 years abroad living and studying in France and Portugal before returning to Nema. I met 3 women last night, one whose niece taught her English years ago, and she got to practice it on us! Sometimes I complain that Mauritania has a lack of cultural relativity but as soon as I do I meet someone who understands what life is like outside of here, and I'm humbled. As for attire, I do wear long skirts and cover my head and have not had any problems whatsoever with anyone. Men try to flirt with me but its usually just my novelty that they're playing off of and I usually have a few choice words in French and Hassaniya reserved for them, and they get the hint and leave me alone. White moor women are notorious for their sharp tongues, which is probably why I'm getting along so well over here, there is nothing wrong with completely speaking your mind!\n",1]
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), his family lives in Nouakchott, so it's likely that he is a government worker that has been assigned to work in Nema (this is VERY common in Mauritania, especially with schooling jobs). I stopped by the CFPP earlier this week to check in and see if it was open or if my counterpart was there, there were several people there registering students (ie sitting on the ground outside). Everyone seemed happy to see me, two of the teachers were from Boghe, my training site, and they are all convinced that I am the new instructor that has been sent to teach a class on computers. I find this funny because I have no idea what I'm supposed to be doing with the CFPP, but I'd be happy to teach computers. They informed me that class starts next week. So basically I will be going to the CFPP sometime next week to talk to the director and try to get the details of all of this worked out, so people don't expect me to waltz in the first day with a lesson plan and roster or something… It's the middle of Ramadan anyway, people don't really do anything in 115 degree heat without drinking or eating…The first 3 months at site are really supposed to be spent learning the language and the culture of your site and getting to know its people before diving into really ambitious projects. I've been trying to do that by studying the market as best I can when I visit it. I also plan to work with women's cooperatives, hopefully in time for the tourist season.
So what is it like living in a "Conservative White Moor Town" that hasn't had Americans in 20 years?? It's not bad, you'd be amazed at who you can meet when you put yourself out there. My next door neighbor is the medecin chef (head of the hospital) who studied medicine in Moscow in the 80s. One of our friendliest neighbors is a man who spent 20 years abroad living and studying in France and Portugal before returning to Nema. I met 3 women last night, one whose niece taught her English years ago, and she got to practice it on us! Sometimes I complain that Mauritania has a lack of cultural relativity but as soon as I do I meet someone who understands what life is like outside of here, and I'm humbled. As for attire, I do wear long skirts and cover my head and have not had any problems whatsoever with anyone. Men try to flirt with me but its usually just my novelty that they're playing off of and I usually have a few choice words in French and Hassaniya reserved for them, and they get the hint and leave me alone. White moor women are notorious for their sharp tongues, which is probably why I'm getting along so well over here, there is nothing wrong with completely speaking your mind!
\u003c/span\>That being said, I'm happy to have a house with high walls so I can hang around the house in shorts, the heat right now is unbearable. I have not yet taken to wearing the Moulafa (head to toe veil) around town, but maybe as time goes by and I get more comfortable around here, and the temperature gets a little cooler I might give it a shot.\n\u003cspan\> \u003c/span\>At this point I also kind of feel like an imposter wearing one when I really can't even speak very much Hassaniya, my site mate Sarah wears them almost every day and the reactions she gets in the streets are hilarious, women literally start cheering when they see her! I used to see the moulafa\n\u003cspan\> \u003c/span\>as a misogynistic symbol, but women are really proud to wear them and see the veil as a mark of their culture and a source of pride, much like a kilt would be to a Scottish person.\n\u003c/strong\>\u003c/font\>\u003c/span\>\u003c/p\>\n\u003cp style\u003d\"margin:0cm 0cm 10pt\"\>\u003cspan lang\u003d\"EN-US\"\>\u003cfont face\u003d\"Times New Roman\"\>\u003cstrong\>I guess that's all I can fit into an email for now, something that started as an email and turned into a novel, and if any of you have actually read this far, if you'd like to mail me things for Christmas, it would be wise to start sending them out now, seeing as things take a long time to get through customs! I don't need anything in particular, but spice mixes (like old bay and taco seasoning) drink mixes, hair conditioner samples, dried fruit and old copies of almost any magazine would be appreciated!!!! \n\u003c/strong\>\u003c/font\>\u003c/span\>\u003c/p\>\n\u003cp style\u003d\"margin:0cm 0cm 10pt\"\>\u003cspan lang\u003d\"EN-US\"\>\u003cfont face\u003d\"Times New Roman\"\>\u003cstrong\>I love and miss you all, and wish you could be here to see some of the things I witness every day!!!!\u003c/strong\>\u003c/font\>\n\u003c/span\>\u003c/p\>\n\u003cp style\u003d\"margin:0cm 0cm 10pt\"\>\u003cspan lang\u003d\"EN-US\"\>\u003cfont face\u003d\"Times New Roman\"\>\u003cstrong\> \u003c/strong\>\u003c/font\>\u003c/span\>\u003c/p\>\n\u003cp style\u003d\"margin:0cm 0cm 10pt\"\>\u003cspan lang\u003d\"EN-US\"\>\u003cfont face\u003d\"Times New Roman\"\>\u003cstrong\>I will post more pictures when I can!!\u003c/strong\>\u003c/font\>\u003c/span\>\u003c/p\>",1]
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That being said, I'm happy to have a house with high walls so I can hang around the house in shorts, the heat right now is unbearable. I have not yet taken to wearing the Moulafa (head to toe veil) around town, but maybe as time goes by and I get more comfortable around here, and the temperature gets a little cooler I might give it a shot. At this point I also kind of feel like an imposter wearing one when I really can't even speak very much Hassaniya, my site mate Sarah wears them almost every day and the reactions she gets in the streets are hilarious, women literally start cheering when they see her! I used to see the moulafa as a misogynistic symbol, but women are really proud to wear them and see the veil as a mark of their culture and a source of pride, much like a kilt would be to a Scottish person.
I guess that's all I can fit into an email for now, something that started as an email and turned into a novel, and if any of you have actually read this far, if you'd like to mail me things for Christmas, it would be wise to start sending them out now, seeing as things take a long time to get through customs! I don't need anything in particular, but spice mixes (like old bay and taco seasoning) drink mixes, hair conditioner samples, dried fruit and old copies of almost any magazine would be appreciated!!!!
I love and miss you all, and wish you could be here to see some of the things I witness every day!!!!

I will post more pictures when I can!!